Occoneechee Panhandle Hike

On Sunday, we stirred before dawn, broke camp in the half-light, and slipped into the Tupelo Birding Trailhead just beyond the campground gate in Occoneechee State Park.

The path ducked past the splash of the spray park, crossed Panhandle Road, and spilled onto the park’s main artery. A quick hop across carried us to the Mossy Creek Nature Trail, where a clear tributary tumbled over velvet-green rocks.

From there, Warrior’s Path Nature Trail guided us down to the boat-ramp lot.

Mossy Creek surrendered to the Old Plantation Trail beside a lone brick chimney—the last sentinel of the Occoneechee Plantation.

The loop circled the vanished estate passing an old cemetery.

Only terraced gardens remain, stepping down the hillside like green staircases, each level littered with knobby Osage oranges glowing chartreuse against the leaves.

We closed the circle on the Big Oak Nature Trail and rolled back to the car, stomachs growling.

A short drive into town yielded hot coffee and biscuits, then we returned to the Panhandle Trailhead for the park’s grand finale. Seven miles long, the Panhandle Trail shadows the paved road to the equestrian campground, then slips behind a gate onto a forgotten lane that ribbons down a narrow peninsula.

Open meadows flashed by, but mostly we walked beneath a tunnel of hickory and oak, the fallen leaves a rust-red carpet underfoot. No grand overlook waited at the tip - only a quiet cove.

We picked our way down the bank, boots sliding on pine needles, until Buggs Island Lake opened wide and blue before us. A heron lifted off the water, slow wings beating the morning still. We turned, seven miles back the way we came, legs warm, the peninsula now ours alone.

Munford Trail Hike

On Saturday, I loaded Amaroq into the car and pointed north toward Virginia for a weekend of hiking and camping. Our first stop was Greenwood Wildlife Management Area on Kerr Lake.

We picked up the Robert Munford Trail and followed gravel roads for the opening mile until a right turn aimed us at the old Munford Cemetery tucked in the pines.

Past here, the path shrank to singletrack - faint, rooty, and half-swallowed by leaves. It spat us out beside a weathered cabin, then hugged the lakeshore, trading forest shade for sudden flashes of water.

We ducked under powerlines a few times before the trail spilled onto Eagle Point, seven honest miles behind us.

Rather than retrace every step, we cut back on the cemetery loop, boots lighter with the lake still glittering in our eyes. 

At the trailhead I jogged down to the water’s edge for a couple last shots.

From here, we rolled into Clarksville. Lunch was burgers and cold pints on the dog-friendly patio at Buggs Island Brewing - lake breeze, bridge views, tail wags all around. By early afternoon we reached Occoneechee State Park and claimed a campsite under the oaks. With daylight to burn, we parked at the Beaver Pond Trail and set off.

A hundred yards in, a clearing full of turkey vultures stared down like silent gargoyles.

The path looped another mile through hardwoods, breaking open twice for postcard views of the lake shimmering below.

Back at camp we stacked firewood, struck a match, and let the flames push the chill away as the sun slipped behind the trees and the stars took over the sky.

DuPont Fawn Lake Hike

On Monday we checked out of the hotel and drove to the Fawn Lake Access in DuPont State Forest. After parking, we followed the wide, leafy ribbon of Conservation Road into the woods. Half a mile in or so, we crossed over a chattering tributary of Reasonover Creek. Just off the trail, hidden in a tangle of rhododendron, Jenn’s Falls spilled down mossy rock.

It was a short bushwhack, so we took turns slipping through the undergrowth while Harper and Amaroq waited on the path.

Back together, we rolled on past the old Airstrip Trail, then eased downhill on a carpet of bronze oak leaves.

A quick left onto Bridal Veil Falls Road delivered us, in about half a mile, to the wide, sunlit base of Bridal Veil Falls.

Water roared over the lip and shattered into mist; we clambered across slick boulders, cameras clicking, but kept Harper on flat ground - no climbing to the veil today. Satisfied, we turned for home, choosing Fawn Lake Road to stitch a perfect loop.

The lake appeared like a jewel box: mirror-still water ringed by sugar maples blazing red and gold.

We lingered on the shore, breathing in the crisp, sweet air, then followed the trail’s gentle arc back to the car. Doors slammed, packs tossed in the trunk, and with the forest fading in the rearview mirror, we pointed the car toward home.

Panthertown Little Green Hike

On Sunday, we enjoyed breakfast before setting out for Panthertown Valley under a light rain. Along Cold Mountain Road, Shower Bath Falls trickled faintly.

To our surprise, the trailhead had only a handful of cars. We began on the Greenland Creek Trail (#488), passing beneath the powerline. A short spur soon led to Mac's Falls.

Continuing onward, we reached Greenland Creek Falls, where we scrambled over rocks to capture photos of this stunning cascade.

Retracing our steps, we took Mac's Gap Trail (#482) back to the trailhead. From there, we followed the Panthertown Valley Trail (#474) to Little Green Trail (#485) and paused at Schoolhouse Falls.

Harper played in the sandy beach area while Amaroq rested and had a treat. Pressing on via Little Green Trail, the path climbed steeply at first but soon leveled at the summit.

A spur trail opened to breathtaking views from an exposed rock face - fall colors blanketing Panthertown Valley below, even under cloudy skies.

It's clear why this area is called the Yosemite of the east.

The trail crossed a few more scenic overlooks before descending the opposite side.

At the base, we turned left onto Mac's Gap Trail and returned to the trailhead. We then drove back to Brevard for dinner at Oscar Blues. Afterward, a quick detour brought us to Key Falls.

It's a roadside cascade that could use more flow to shine but offered a pleasant finale.

Finally, we returned to the hotel to begin packing.

Middle Prong MST Hike

On Saturday, we whisked Harper and Amaroq off to the mountains for a weekend of waterfalls and vibrant fall foliage. We'd planned to hike Black Balsam Knob, but the parking lot was full, so we pivoted to the Mountains-to-Sea Trail lot on NC-215. Heading westbound on the trail, we crossed Bubbling Spring Branch into Middle Prong Wilderness, veered left off the path, and bushwhacked through a campsite to a social trail along the creek. After another crossing, we arrived at the base of Lower Bubbling Spring Branch Falls.

We took turns scrambling over the rocks for photos while keeping the kids safely below.

Refreshed from the falls, we crossed once more and tackled a steep climb, pausing for one final creek crossing before reaching Upper Bubbling Spring Branch Falls.

The rising sun made for tricky lighting, but a striking rock at the base, fringed with ferns, made it memorable.

We retraced our steps to the main trail, where Harper hopped out of the backpack and hiked independently for a stretch.

A mile in, switchbacks led to a viewpoint of Mount Hardy Falls (though the flow was modest in these dry conditions).

Past here were some nice views of the Balsam Mountains.

We pressed on another mile before turning back.

Driving south on NC-215, we stopped at Living Waters Ministry and followed a path to Mill Shoals.

It's a stunning double waterfall where North Fork French Broad River meets Shoal Creek, framed by pops of autumn color.

Shoal Creek Falls is just below the red building.

We clambered over the rocks, then took a short downstream trail past several inviting cascades, including Pancake Falls.

It's a small waterfall but flows over interesting rocks resembling a stack of pancakes.

The short trail ended at Bird Rock Falls. Even in low water, a gentle trickle veiled the massive cliff above the falls.

Several families splashed nearby, but we snapped a few photos and moved on.

For dinner, we pulled into Forks of the River Taproom, grabbing hearty wraps from the Levi's Lunchbox food truck and indulgent cake balls for dessert.  Harper enjoyed playing with the gravel around the picnic tables.  With full bellies, we checked into the Sunset Motel to unwind.