Landmannalaugar

We woke up at about 730 in the morning and had breakfast at the hotel and then got ready for our tour. At about 9, the tour bus picked us up and we headed east towards the Iceland Highlands. We stopped at one of the last gas stations at Árnes campground on Route 32 to pick up lunch and use the restroom. This is the last bit of civilization before going off paved roads as we headed deeper into the highlands. From the parking lot at the gas station, we could see Hekla Volcano in the distance.

Our first stop was Hjálparfoss waterfall (which means "help"), a beautiful split waterfall that comes together among towering cliffs of basalt above the falls basin. Just past the falls was Þjóðveldisbærinn Stöng, a restored viking-era long house that had been buried under the ash of Mount Hekla. A little ways further, we passed the Sultartangi hydroelectric station and continued on through ever increasingly bumpy and rugged roads as the amount of vegetation began to decline. Passing through lava fields, I couldn't help but think that this must be what the landscape on the moon or Mars looks like. At least the closest that most of us will ever get to see. As we got near to Landmannalaugar, we made two more quick stops. First, was Hnausapollur crater, an ancient volcano that had filled with turquoise blue waters. The second was Frostastaðavatn lake, a lake very close to Landmannalaugar with the most beautiful crystal-clear blue water. We stopped at both sites for five to ten minutes to take some pictures, then made the short drive on to Landmannalaugar.  The last part of the drive was perhaps the most challenging, with two rather deer stream crossings to arrive at the main area. I was not expecting such a crowd here, so far out in the middle of nowhere. There were close to a dozen buses, maybe 50 or more cars (well 4WD vehicles at least), and a huge camping area with close to a hundred tents set up.

This is my kind of place - the backpacking mecca of Iceland! Upon arriving at Landmannalugar, we quickly ate lunch then set out to hike the loop trail around here. Our tour guide warned us it takes up to two hours and we would have to go quickly to make it back in time. But I assured him that we are experienced hikers and would have no trouble completing the hike in time.

Just past the bathrooms and camping hut the Laugavegur trail climbed steeply through the Laugahraun lava flow before coming out into a beautiful valley amidst the colorful rhyolite mountains that make Landmannalaugar such a popular destination for hiking and backpacking.

Although most of the area is devoid of life, this valley was full of grass and small, white wildflowers creating an almost magical atmosphere.

Continuing along the trail led a little bit more up to the base of Mount Brennisteinsalda, which means "sulfur wave". Sulfur has colored the sides of this active volcano different colors and nearby fumaroles were a reminder that this volcano is definitely still active.

From here, the trail split with Laugavegur continuing to Mount Brennisteinsalda and ultimately Þórsmörk.

We took the Grænagil Trail back into the Laugahraun lava field towards Grænagil or "green gorge".

Upon reaching the gorge, another trail split up, this one heading up to Mount Bláhnúkur, which we could see towering over the gorge. Although Bláhnúkur means "blue mount", it looked much more black. As we continued on the trail, we headed into the gorge, formed by a river winding between Blánúkur and Laugahraun. The trail slowly descends as it makes its way around and by the end is very near to the river. As the trail loops back around to Landmannalaugar, a trail and small bridge over the river marks the other side of the trail up to Bláhnúkur.

Although this hike was only maybe 4 km, it was one of the most beautiful and enjoyable hikes I have ever done. I couldn't help but think that I need to return with more time and do a backpacking trip through this wonderful area. Since we returned with more than enough time to spare, I took a quick dip in the natural springs. It was very shallow and quite warm, although the smell of sulfur was noticeable. The rocks along the floor of the spring were quite hot and when I got out, I was a bit chilled. Such a difference between the water and air temperatures. We headed back to the bus and the driver offered us dried haddock "chips". I'm not a big fan of seafood, but I thought I'd give them a try. Luckily, he also offered a shot of Brennivín, an Icelandic schnapps drink that covered up the taste of the chips.  Once everyone returned to the bus, we headed back on a slightly different route. Past Frostastaðavatn, we turned onto Landmannaleið and drove west through Dómadalur Valley and out of Friðland að Fjallabaki. After about a half hour, we stopped along the side the road to see Hekla Volcano from the north. The land was relatively flat for miles so provided a great view of the stratovolcano. There was even an unusually conspicuous sign for it with nothing else besides the dirt and ash around around for miles. The next was just a little further on, where a great deal of pumice from the eruptions of Hekla was everywhere. We took a couple souvenirs before taking off. We continued a little ways further on the unpaved road and finally hit a paved road - Route 26 to Route 1 along the southern coast - as we made our way back to Mosfellsbær. Along the way, we made a detour in Eyrarbakki, a small coastal town that used to be noted for its fishing. These days, however, the largest employer in town is Litla-Hraun prison, the largest in Iceland. Another interesting spot in Eyrarbakki is Húsið, or House, the oldest wooden building in Iceland. After that, we headed back to our hotel, and had dinner before heading to bed after a very long day. We didn't arrive back to the hotel until after 8, but keeping track of time is so difficult when the sun is always up!

Jetlag in Iceland

We arrived at Keflavik airport around 8 or so in the morning, crossed through passport control and got our luggage. And just as the hotel owner had said, our driver was waiting nearby with a sign with our names on in it. We drove for a while through beautiful lava fields on the peninsula, almost like a lunar landscape, for a ways before heading into Reykjavik and to Mosfellsbaer. We made a quick stop at a bank so I could withdraw cash from the ATM (a much better deal than exchanging currency at the airport, as suggested by the driver), and were dropped off at Hotel Laxnes. The room wasn't supposed to be ready yet, so I was hoping they would hold our luggage so we could walk around a bit and stretch our legs after the overnight flight. But surprisingly, our room was almost ready and within five minutes, we were able to get into our room and unpack. We had lunch at the KFC next to the hotel, then headed out to explore the delightful little village of Mosfellsbaer. First, we headed down to where the rivers flow into the sea.

There were a number of Icelandic horses grazing in this area and we couldn't help but stop and visit. Icelandic horses are smaller than other horses and their blood lines have been kept pure for 1000 years.

No horses can ever be imported to the island and even an Icelandic horse that leaves may never return.

After taking some pictures and petting the horses for a bit, we walked further down to where a small peninsula juts out into the ocean and saw some sea birds on the shore and some beautiful flowers growing among the lava rocks.

Then we briefly headed back to the hotel to use the restroom and then headed north towards the rivers. It didn't take long to find our first waterfall of the trip - Tungufoss, a relatively small but very pretty waterfall just downstream from where Route 1 crosses the river.

We hung around here for a while taking pictures and enjoying the beautiful scenery before following the trail further upstream to see a few smaller cascades along the river.

To the right (east) we could see Mount Helgafell and a trail heading up the mountain. But we were tired from our overnight flight and decided to head back. We got some pizza for dinner and went to bed early to get ready for our Landmannalaugar tour in the morning.

Paradise Falls

In the morning, we broke camp and headed to the Lake Toxaway area for one last waterfall of the weekend. We took NC-281 into Jackson County and parked along the road for Paradise Falls. This waterfall is on Wolf Creek Lake and the flow of water is dependent on the dam. Today, the dam was closed, so the flow was light.

We headed down the short, but steep trail to the base of the waterfall and of course had to take a dip in the falls.

A rope just at the base provides a way to get up to the middle part of the falls. I was still tired and sore from the day before, so I decided not to go up. Then we headed back to the car and start the trip back.

We stopped in Brevard on the way for BBQ for lunch then made the long drive back to Raleigh.

Horsepasture & Thompson Waterfalls

Friday, we headed out for our big annual Brevard Camping Trip. Heather's car was still in the shop so we had to wait until after lunch to pick it up, then Heather, Danny, and I made the trip out. With a late start, we didn't get to the Kuykendall campsite until about 830. There was just enough daylight left to get out tents set up and then join the group around the campfire a bit before calling it a night. Tomorrow was going to be a big day, so I needed a good night's rest for hiking, swimming, and waterfalls.  In the morning, we woke up, ate breakfast, and left camp to head for Gorges State Park. We parked at the end and headed down the Rainbow Falls Trail. Before reaching the namesake waterfall, we took a spur trail to the left leading down to Horsepasture River and stop to see Stairway Falls.

Due to the high temperatures and low rainfall, this waterfall wasn't as heavy as normal as so it didn't look as much like stairs as it does during heavier flow. After a few minutes, we made our way back to the trail and continued on past Rainbow Falls to Turtleback Falls. Unfortunately, it was very crowded here, with many families and groups enjoying the falls and swimming. Of course we had to do a few slides over the falls, but didn't stay too long as we had many more falls to visit today. We backtracked to Rainbow Falls and had lunch, then took a dip in the basin.

Although it wasn't as hot here in the mountains as it was in the Triangle, it was very humid, so the cold mountain water was very refreshing.

After Rainbow Falls, we headed back to the car and left the park. Turning left on NC-281, we went just a couple miles then pulled off on Brewer Road, where the unmarked trailhead is for Thompson River. The main trail here is an old logging road and pretty easy to follow. After about a mile, we took a smaller trail to the right that led to High Falls, with another great swimming hole.

A few of our group decided they had had enough and headed back after this waterfall, while the rest of us continued along the Thompson River trail. Shortly, there was a fairly deep stream crossing. Rather than wade through, we bushwhacked up river a bit and found a better spot to rock-hop across the river and then continued for another two miles or so, before taking the trail down to Big Falls. Although the trail was easy to follow, it was not well maintained and required ducking and climbing over rhododendron that had grown over the trail.

These were not the Catawba rhododendron that I am used to seeing, with pink flowers. These rhododendron had white flowers, Rosebay rhododendron, I think. This trail down to the falls is extremely steep and difficult. At first, its not too bad, but quickly gets steeper and steeper. Towards then end, the descent required the use of ropes and climbing on tree branches, very challenging. But we all made it safely.

And after the strenuous climb down, a dip in the water was needed and a few slides down falls.

As I went to put my clothes back on, I realized a swarm of bees were on my pants and boots! I don't know whether they were attracted to the sweat, or maybe pollen from the rhododendron had rubbed off, but they weren't very aggressive. With a little help, I was able to get them off and get my clothes back on before making the steep climb back up. Although the climb up was more strenuous than coming down, it seemed easier in a way. I didn't fear for my life with each step, like going down, anyway. It was starting to get dark, so we took the trail back to the car and headed into town for dinner before making our way back to camp. By this point, I was so tired and went straight back to my tent and passed out.

Beach and Blast 2012

In the morning, we woke up, broke camp, and headed to Fort Fisher State Recreation Area to begin our beach day. It was already getting hot at 9, so we quickly set up our shade canopy on the beach and then took a dip in the ocean to cool off. After how warm it was the day before, I didn't think I could feel too cold. But after about 30 minutes or so in the ocean, I started to get a bit chilled, so I got out and warmed up in the sun (very quickly!). John, who doesn't care much for water, was flying his kite on the beach. With a 1/4 to 1/2 mile of string, the kite was so high, it was barely visible. Somehow, the kite managed to crash into the water and broke. We all started helping to reel in the kite along with help from others on the beach, which was quite a task given the length of string. After that, I spent some time in the shade before we headed out to hike the Basin Trail. The trail starts just behind the visitor center and wanders through beach and salt marsh out to the southern tip of the area.

Along the trail, we saw many little Fiddler Crabs scurrying in and out of the sand and marsh.

At the end of the trail is an observation dock, with beautiful views of the Basin and Zeke's Island Coastal Reserve.

A great spot for birding, we saw pelicans and egrets in the water here.

On the way back, we stopped to see the World War II bunker, where the hermit of Fort Fisher, Robert E. Harrill, lived for many years.

Then we headed back to the beach for one more refreshing dip in the water before packing up. We stopped back at Carolina Beach State Park, where several people were planning to camp again, to take a shower and wash off the sand and salt. Then we headed into Wilmington and had dinner at the Reel Cafe. After dinner, we staked our spot along the waterfront and waited for the fireworks to start. They were only about 20 minutes this year, but it was a great show. Several of the fireworks exploded in the shape of stars! After the fireworks, we quickly headed back to the car and battled traffic to get out of Wilmington. But once out, the traffic was light heading back to Raleigh.