Monday, September 19, 2016

Diocletian's Palace

Monday morning, we woke up and went to Bobis along the Riva Promenade for some pastries for breakfast. The storm the night before had cleared out and it was just beautiful along the riva.



I was surprised to see all the beautiful palm trees along here.  After eating, we swung by a bank ATM to withdraw kuna and then headed to Diocletian's Palace.  As one of the top tourist attractions in Split, it was quite crowded.  Vendors were set up all along the pedestrian streets in the palace, but it was too crowded to really browse.  So we bought tickets to explore the basement areas.



We first walked around the western wing.  This ancient palace was really beautiful and it was just amazing to be walking around such an old structure.  Despite its age, the palace was in remarkably good shape and the supporting columns and structures were beautiful.



A number of old artifacts were laying about in the basement area, including old bowls, stone plaques, and sarcophagi.



A few 3500-year old sphinxes were found in this area, which the emperor had procured from Egypt.



Unfortunately, most were beheaded as later Christians considered them idols.  In a couple spots of the basement, parts of the palace had collapsed, but fortunately, restoration work is in progress.



We also found a bust of Diocletian himself, though I don't think that dated from his era.



After exploring this side for a while, we headed over to the east wing that had similar features but not as many rooms were open.



Here, we saw a couple of people dressed as Roman soldiers and followed them outside to where they had a short performance with the emperor himself coming out to address the crowd.



Out here in the courtyard was an intact sphinx from Egypt, one of the only that wasn't beheaded.



At one part of the courtyard, beautiful flowers were growing up the walls.



Exploring further around the palace, we headed through the vestibule and came across a jewelry shop where a lady was making glass jewelry.  It was interesting watching her work with the glass and I bought Sandy a pendant before we left.  Next, we headed to the cathedral to see some of the other sights.



Our first stop was the treasury that had a number of beautiful artifacts on display, but no photography was permitted.  The relics of Saint Domnius as well as beautiful chalices and and ornate crosses, paintings, and old manuscripts.   Next, we walked though the cathedral which was truly beautiful, inside and out.



There were several altars that were so elaborate.



This is one of the oldest Catholic cathedrals in the world still in its original structure.  From here, we headed up the bell tower.  Initially, we climbed up some very narrow and steep stone stairs up about half way and then climbed up metal stairs to the top.



It was crowded, but at each point we stopped, the views just kept getting better and better.  First, we ascended to the level of nearby rooftops, then a higher above the roofs and finally to the top with great 360-degree views of Split and the surrounding mountains.



We could see all the buildings with their orange roofs, Marjan hill in the distance and the gorgeous coastline.  A storm was brewing and it was fantastic watching the clouds roll in from here.  Looking down, I could see the open ceiling of the vestibule we had walked down earlier.



Heading back down the stairs, we descended into the crypt, which was the former mausoleum of Emperor Diocletian.



Finally, we swung by the Temple of Jupiter that had been converted into a baptistery dedicated to St. John.  The ceiling inside the temple was really ornate and beautiful.



As we left the temple, it started raining lightly and we were getting hungry so we got lunch nearby.  Seafood is very popular along the Dalmatian coast, but I'm not a big fan.  Fortunately, there’s a strong Italian influence so I was always able to find something I liked.  After a late lunch, we swung by the office for Portal Tours to pay for our tours for the week and get our vouchers.  Then we started walking towards Marjan Hill.  There were a lot of stairs and uphill through the old Veli Varoš district to Vidilica cafe.



The overlooks here provided great views of Split and the harbor down below, but this is only part of the way up the hill.  Trails and roads lead up the hill and it was a very pleasant hike.  Along the way, we saw lots of enormous aloe plants.



We also passed by the Church of St. Nicholas.



It was a small church and the door was locked so we couldn't go inside, but I put my camera through a hole to get a picture of the interior.



Continuing on, the trail came out at the site of a former zoo and then led up to the top of Marjan Hill where the Croatian flag was flying.



From up here, we had a great view of Split from above, but the view west towards the sunset was blocked.  So after a few pictures, we headed back down and had dinner and cocktails along the Riva.  The harbor was beautiful at night.



After dinner, we headed to bed as we had a long day planned for tomorrow.

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