Tuesday morning, we woke up early and grabbed some pastries from Bobis
before heading to the bus stop for our tour to Plitvice Lakes. It’s a
long drive – 3 to 4 hours – so we had to start early. Our tour guide
was Mario and our driver was Tiho. We absolutely loved them – our
favorite guides of the week. During the long drive, Mario kept us
entertained by teaching us about Croatian history and culture and a few
words in Croatian (though he wouldn’t teach us any bad words!). Right
away, we passed by the fortress of Klis, which is where Mereen in Game of Thrones is
filmed. As we headed deeper into hinterland, Mario pointed out how the
trees and plantlife were stunted due to high winds coming off the sea.
We made a quick stop for snacks at a gas station near Maslenica where
we could see the Velebit Mountains. We would pass through this mountain
shortly. After our stop, we drove through Sveti Rok Tunnel, passing
through the Velebit Mountains. This was the longest tunnel in Croatia
at nearly 6 km. Through the tunnel, we left the Dalmatia region and
entered Lika. On this side of the mountain, protected from the strong
winds by the mountains, the land was all forested. Amazing what a
difference the side of the mountain makes. We continued for another
hour or so, finally arriving at Plitvice Lakes National Park around 11
at entrance 2. After Mario got our tickets, we entered the park and
took a short boat ride across Lake Kozjak to begin our hike around the
Upper Lakes.
Boardwalks wrap around the many lakes here, each separated
by the most beautiful waterfalls. The park was very crowded, despite
being shoulder season, so walking around on the boardwalks was slow
going.
We passed by a few smaller, presumably unnamed waterfalls, and
soon arrived at the first named waterfall Veliki Prštavac, at 28 m high.
This is the second highest waterfall in the park. It was a real
beauty, but was flowing strongly and produced a lot of mist. Continuing
on, we then made it to Mali Prštavac, a similar waterfall at 18 m.
Next, we came to Galovački Buk. Although not particularly high, I
thought this was the most beautiful waterfall in the park.
A dozen or
more streams of water tumbled down from one lake to the next into the
most beautiful turquoise pool of water. This was such a beautiful scene
and truly captured the stunning beauty of Plitvice Lakes. Heading
further up along the lakes, we saw many more small, unnamed waterfalls.
Arriving at essentially the top, we made a short restroom stop and
waited a short time for the shuttle bus. It was a bit chaotic getting
on the bus - Mario advised me to use my tripod to whack other tourist
and ensure our group go on the bus. The shuttle took us all the way
down to the past the upper lakes and parked at the lower lakes. From
here, we followed gravel road down to lake level. Another trail, mostly
composed of boardwalks led past the lower lakes. We first passed
Milanovački Slap waterfall, which drained into a most beautiful lake.
The water here is so clear and green. A number of fish, European Chub I
believe, could be seen in the water.
Continuing on, we passed more
small cascades and the beautiful turquoise water before heading to the
big waterfall. Veliki Slap is the highest waterfall in the park at 78
m.
Of course it was very crowded, but we climbed on some rocks to get
some good pictures of this massive waterfall. Then we started heading
back towards entrance 1 where Tiho would pick us up. Heading back up
the gorge, we passed a couple more overlooks of Veliki Slap from a
distance.
Although the lighting was poor, it was a great view of this
waterfall and really put perspective on its massive size. We could see
not only the main drop that we could see from the base, but also
additional cascades and drops downstream. Back at the bus, we went a
short ways to lunch at Vila Velebita. It was a late lunch by around 4
when we arrived and we were all very hungry. But the food was really
delicious and nice to have something more traditionally Croatian. After
lunch, we started making the long drive back to Split. On the way,
Mario opened the bar so we could purchase beer or wine on the ride
back. I had a Velebitsko Temno. Mario claimed it was the best beer in
Europe, but having been in Munich for Oktoberfest, I was a bit
skeptical. But after tasting it, I agreed – it was great.
Unfortunately, I’m not sure I can get it back home. Mario gave us some
more information about Croatia’s history on the ride home and we made
one more stop for a sunset view over Krka River.
As we approached
Split, Mario handed us a note that Tiho was a good singer and we should
ask him to sing us a song. Tiho sang O Sole Mio for us as we
drove through Split back to the bus stop. It had been a long day so we
headed back to the hotel after our tour and went to bed.
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