Saturday was our last full day in Croatia and today we were doing a boat tour of the many islands off the coast of Split. We boarded the speedboat at 830 with our guide Martko.
We first stopped at Čiovo island near Trogir to pick up some other visitors and then made the rather long boat ride to the island of Biševo to see the Blue Cave. The Blue Cave is illuminated from around 11 to 12 so we had to go here first to see the cave under optimal lighting conditions. The boat was cruising at about 25 MPH so it got a little chilly with the wind. In about 2 hours, we made it to Biševo and had a quick break.
The views here of Vis in the distance were really nice.
We then boarded a smaller boat to head to the cave. The Blue Cave has a very small entrance and so larger boats can’t get in. Even in the small boat, we had to duck down when entering.
Inside the cave, sunlight penetrated the water outside the cave and illuminated the cave in a beautiful blue light. It was amazing to see and hard to believe that it’s natural lighting.
After a quick run through the cave, we returned to the dock and re-boarded our tour boat. Martko took us over to the fishing village of Komiža on the island of Vis.
We had about an hour here, so we walked around the town, first visiting Komuna, the fishing museum. They had some interesting exhibits but the highlight was the view from the top.
Then we stopped by Gusarica beach and relaxed for a bit to enjoy the view of the bay.
Back at the boat, we continued around Vis and made a quick stop at Stiniva beach, rated as the best in Europe.
Tucked back away in cove protected by cliffs, it's no wonder it was rated highly. Our next stop was at the Green Cave on the island of Ravnik.
This cave is much larger than Blue Cave and bigger boats were able to get in. A small hole in the roof of the cave allowed sunlight to get in, creating an interesting green spot in the water.
A few people were in the water swimming, but with multiple boats in here, swimming didn't seem safe. As we were leaving the cave, we saw some people on top of the cave, jumping into the water. It was getting into the afternoon and we were getting hungry so our next stop was the small island Budikovac, with a population of one. A rather eccentric gentleman lives here year round with his donkeys and some other livestock.
We had lunch here and then took some time to swim and snorkel in the beautiful water. The water was very cold, but so crystal clear and I spotted a few fish while snorkeling. It was too cold to stay in long.
Our last stop was the city of Hvar on the island of the same name. We first walked past the Church of St. Stephen and then made the hike up to the fortress.
Along the way, we passed an old church; I never figured out a name for this one.
At the fortress, we first headed down into the prison. There were several small cells, including a torture chamber.
Then we went up to the top of the fortress for amazing views overlooking Hvar and the harbor.
After a few pictures, we headed back into town just walked around the beautiful old city for a bit. Passing the Benedictine Monastery, there was a statue of a monk praying outside.
When it was time, we got back on the boat and headed back to Split. There was some type of regatta going on and we passed a number of sailboats as we headed back to Split. For our last dinner in Split, we ate at Fife. It was buffet style, but the food was really good. After that, we had one more drink along the Riva to enjoy sunset and then headed back to the room to pack.
Sunday was long day in many airports, but we made it home without any incidents.
Friday was an early morning as we had a long day heading to Dubrovnik. Our tour guide today was Igor and our driver was Ivan. After everyone was boarded on the bus, we headed south. We made a bathroom and snack break at the highest gas station in Croatia where we could see the towering Biokovo Mountains, the second highest mountain range in Croatia. From here, we continued south to our first stop in the small town of Ston. A defensive stone wall was built around the town that looked like a miniature version of China’s Great Wall.
In town, Igor pointed out a couple places to stop. First we hit up a bakery to pick up some pastries and meat pies to eat. Then we swung by the wine store to get some Croatian wine to bring home before exploring the small town. Walking south out of the walls, we could see the salt pans. We didn't really have enough time to walk through so just got some pictures from the street.
Down one street, we could see the Church of St. Blaise. Originally built in around 1340, the church has been repeatedly destroyed by earthquakes, most recently in 1996. And like many times in the preceding centuries, the church was being restored.
We walked around the town a bit more along the walls and spotted some amazing cactus growing up along the city walls.
But then it was time, so we headed back to the bus and continue towards Dubrovnik. Continuing on, we passed through a small section of Bosnia-Herzegovina and then back into Croatia. The drive along the coast here was absolutely beautiful and soon we were headed into Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik is always crowded and a couple cruise ships were in port, so it was even more crowded than usual, despite being shoulder season. We got dropped off at the bus stop near an interesting fountain with statues of Pan and Nymph.
Starting our exploration of the city, Igor took us around the old town of the city for about an hour. He provided some fascinating history of the city and pointed out several landmarks throughout the city, including the the stairs where Cersei Lannister did her Walk of Atonement in Game of Thrones. Dubrovnik is the setting for Kings Landing and we recognized many spots from the show. He also showed us many of the beautiful churches located in the city. The Dubrovnik Cathedral was one of the most beautiful.
When Igor was finished, we had some free time to explore the city and headed up to the famous city walls.
Starting out in the eastern end of the walls near the harbor, we headed up and walked around the walls in the counterclockwise direction. Up here, we had amazing views of the city. The walls span the perimeter of the city and we spent about an hour and a half walking around.
There were several old cannons up here, indicating the defensive nature of these walls.
The bright orange roofs of the buildings of Dubrovnik made a spectacular sight from the walls. About halfway through, we stopped at Minčeta Tower.
Climbing up to the top was the highest point on the walls and provided the best views.
Continuing on, we could see Lovrijenac Fort, which is detached from the old town. Standing tall on a cliff high above the sea, this old fortress was stunningly beautiful.
The last section of the walls was along the coast and we could see the rocky water far below. At one point high above the rugged rocky coast, we watched some people jump into the ocean from the cliffs. When we finished the walls, we headed back to the old town. We visited the Church of St. Ignatius with the most beautiful interior.
The ceiling above the altar was painted with a heavenly scene and reminded me of the Sistine Chapel. Then we continued through town to Lovrijenac Fort, just outside the old town. There were many stairs to climb up but the views of the Old Town were great from here.
It really put into perspective the scope of the city walls we had walked earlier. After some pictures, it was getting to be about time so we headed back, passing the West Harbor of Dubrovnik.
Returning to the bus, we made the long drive home but Igor told us some stories and history of Croatia to pass the time.
Monday morning, we woke up and went to Bobis along the Riva Promenade for some pastries for breakfast. The storm the night before had cleared out and it was just beautiful along the riva.
I was surprised to see all the beautiful palm trees along here. After eating, we swung by a bank ATM to withdraw kuna and then headed to Diocletian's Palace. As one of the top tourist attractions in Split, it was quite crowded. Vendors were set up all along the pedestrian streets in the palace, but it was too crowded to really browse. So we bought tickets to explore the basement areas.
We first walked around the western wing. This ancient palace was really beautiful and it was just amazing to be walking around such an old structure. Despite its age, the palace was in remarkably good shape and the supporting columns and structures were beautiful.
A number of old artifacts were laying about in the basement area, including old bowls, stone plaques, and sarcophagi.
A few 3500-year old sphinxes were found in this area, which the emperor had procured from Egypt.
Unfortunately, most were beheaded as later Christians considered them idols. In a couple spots of the basement, parts of the palace had collapsed, but fortunately, restoration work is in progress.
We also found a bust of Diocletian himself, though I don't think that dated from his era.
After exploring this side for a while, we headed over to the east wing that had similar features but not as many rooms were open.
Here, we saw a couple of people dressed as Roman soldiers and followed them outside to where they had a short performance with the emperor himself coming out to address the crowd.
Out here in the courtyard was an intact sphinx from Egypt, one of the only that wasn't beheaded.
At one part of the courtyard, beautiful flowers were growing up the walls.
Exploring further around the palace, we headed through the vestibule and came across a jewelry shop where a lady was making glass jewelry. It was interesting watching her work with the glass and I bought Sandy a pendant before we left. Next, we headed to the cathedral to see some of the other sights.
Our first stop was the treasury that had a number of beautiful artifacts on display, but no photography was permitted. The relics of Saint Domnius as well as beautiful chalices and and ornate crosses, paintings, and old manuscripts. Next, we walked though the cathedral which was truly beautiful, inside and out.
There were several altars that were so elaborate.
This is one of the oldest Catholic cathedrals in the world still in its original structure. From here, we headed up the bell tower. Initially, we climbed up some very narrow and steep stone stairs up about half way and then climbed up metal stairs to the top.
It was crowded, but at each point we stopped, the views just kept getting better and better. First, we ascended to the level of nearby rooftops, then a higher above the roofs and finally to the top with great 360-degree views of Split and the surrounding mountains.
We could see all the buildings with their orange roofs, Marjan hill in the distance and the gorgeous coastline. A storm was brewing and it was fantastic watching the clouds roll in from here. Looking down, I could see the open ceiling of the vestibule we had walked down earlier.
Heading back down the stairs, we descended into the crypt, which was the former mausoleum of Emperor Diocletian.
Finally, we swung by the Temple of Jupiter that had been converted into a baptistery dedicated to St. John. The ceiling inside the temple was really ornate and beautiful.
As we left the temple, it started raining lightly and we were getting hungry so we got lunch nearby. Seafood is very popular along the Dalmatian coast, but I'm not a big fan. Fortunately, there’s a strong Italian influence so I was always able to find something I liked. After a late lunch, we swung by the office for Portal Tours to pay for our tours for the week and get our vouchers. Then we started walking towards Marjan Hill. There were a lot of stairs and uphill through the old Veli Varoš district to Vidilica cafe.
The overlooks here provided great views of Split and the harbor down below, but this is only part of the way up the hill. Trails and roads lead up the hill and it was a very pleasant hike. Along the way, we saw lots of enormous aloe plants.
We also passed by the Church of St. Nicholas.
It was a small church and the door was locked so we couldn't go inside, but I put my camera through a hole to get a picture of the interior.
Continuing on, the trail came out at the site of a former zoo and then led up to the top of Marjan Hill where the Croatian flag was flying.
From up here, we had a great view of Split from above, but the view west towards the sunset was blocked. So after a few pictures, we headed back down and had dinner and cocktails along the Riva. The harbor was beautiful at night.
After dinner, we headed to bed as we had a long day planned for tomorrow.
